By now, you have probably heard of peptides and their use in skin care. We were first introduced to peptides in approximately 2009 at a skin care conference by a new and innovative company called HydroPeptide. Nobody else was talking about peptides in skin care at that time. Neal Kitchen is the geneticist behind HydroPeptide and a key leader and developer of peptides in skin care. Most of our professional skin care brands now incorporate the most innovative peptides to date.
While the development of peptides has been a game changer for skincare, have you ever wondered what peptides are and, more specifically, what benefits they bring to your skin?
This is Peptide 101!
Hang in there! It may get a little science-y. We love science at The Summit and we know many of you do too - so let's go!
Our genes determine how we look and how our skin ages. But that's not the whole story. With epigenetic science, we can influence how genes express themselves by essentially turning on genes that signal cells to act healthy and turning off the genes that don't! Wow! We also know now that 80% of the aging of our cells is triggered by environmental and lifestyle factors.
Peptides to the rescue!
Peptides work by telling your skin cells to act in a healthy, gorgeous way! If that sounds familiar to some - it is also how retinol works. The interesting thing about peptides is that they are easier to use and incorporate into your at-home skin care routine than retinol and better suited for sensitive skin.
What are peptides?
Peptides are chains of amino acids that constitute the “building blocks” of proteins in our body. They act as transmitters of information within the body. Amino acids link together to form chains. These chains can be short (a peptide) or long, but the longer chains become proteins. Peptides are fragments of proteins and have a small molecular size.
Proteins, which are composed of these peptide strands, have a larger molecular size. This large size is why creams containing collagen protein or elastin protein have always been too large to effectively help repair the skin structure. They are excellent soothing and moisturizing ingredients but they do not play a part in influencing gene expression and cell repair. Collagen and elastin are two important proteins in the skin that can become damaged and their production can decrease over time.
Our body’s production of collagen starts to slow down in our mid-to-late 20’s. It drastically drops after age 30. In fact, it can drop by 1-2% every year after that! As our collagen decreases, we are left with thinner skin, less elasticity and firmness, and unfortunately, noticeable wrinkles.
Peptides offer a solution to maintain the health and viability of collagen and elastin. Each peptide acts in a very specific way to target a particular need in the skin.
Are there more than one type of Peptide?
There are as many types of peptides as there are types of proteins. Different combinations and types of peptides can be used in the same product to "speak to" and activate different aspects and types of cells that make up our skin.
Here are a few and what they do:
ARGIRELINE ® (Acetyle Hexapeptide-8) is designed to lessen the appearance of wrinkles by preventing muscle contractions, similar to Botox. It also promotes the production of collagen, which plays a role in keeping our skin firm and smooth.
BEECH BUD PEPTIDES: These buds of the Beech Tree are harvested for an extract rich in beneficial natural compounds including peptides and hydroxyproline, an amino acid which is a major component of collagen. They support collagen protein synthesis to firm and tone the skin.
COLLAXY™(hexapeptide-9): Clinically proven to reduce significantly the length and depth of wrinkles.
COPPER TRIPEPTIDE -1 has unique wound healing properties by stimulating the breakdown of unhealthy, too large collagen in scar tissue and stimulating nice and healthy collagen production afterwards. It also has significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
DIPEPTIDE (Neuropeptide) Protects against environmental stressors.
HALOXYL is a widely-used peptide for it's ability to lighten and fade the look of dark circles and under eye puffiness. Numerous studies have shown it is also effective in reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles all over the face.
HIBISCUS PEPTIDES stimulates collagen production.
MATRIXYL ® 3000 (contains 2 peptides) mimics the ability of naturally occurring peptides to promote collagen and elastin production, which helps to even out the skin tone, making the skin look firmer and younger. Matrixyl 3000 is the most popular synthetically generated peptide in skincare!
MILK PEPTIDES stimulate collagen production, which is needed to keep skin plump, youthful and glowing. As well as collagen, it also stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid on a huge scale! This is a big deal when it comes to hydration and improving the texture of your skin.
PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1 helps strengthen skin's underlying supportive elements. It is designated as a “messenger peptide” because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better.
PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-8 is a biomimetic peptide that helps skin feel soothed.
PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 helps reduce redness and skin inflammation.
PALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-3 is used for collagen stimulation.
PEPTIDE Q10TM decreases the appearance of wrinkles.
PROGELINE™ (Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 ): Visibly remodels, skin appears lifted
SOY PEPTIDES stimulate fibroblast proliferation and therefore increase collagen and elastin rebuilding. This results in firmer-looking skin. They are also used to help prevent the exposure to UV light and ozone from degrading collagen bundles in the skin. They can also help to lighten hyperpigmentation and act as an anti-irritant, reducing inflammation.
When should you start using peptides in your skincare?
Humans have the most expressive face among all the species on Earth. The first signs of aging to appear on the face are expression lines and wrinkles. In fact, humans perform more than 15,000 contractions of their facial muscles every day. These micro-expressions can last only 1/25 of a second, but over time they leave their mark on the skin. Therefore, adding peptides to a skin care routine can be beneficial for people as early as in their twenties or thirties!
How should Peptides be added to my skin care routine?
Simply add one or more of the recommended peptide all stars to your current skin care program by swapping out a cream, serum or eye cream you are currently using. Don't hesitate to ask one of our Master Estheticians which would be best suited for you. If you are currently using a retinol consider alternating with a peptide-based cream - either alternate nights or finish one jar of retinol and then use a jar of peptides and repeat.
Here are Peptide All Stars:
GM Collin Bota Peptides Serum – expression lines, wrinkles and soothing repair
GM Collin Bota Peptides Cream - 8 peptide formula for expression lines, wrinkles, environmental protection
GM Collin Bota Peptides Eye Contour Cream – expression lines, wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness
GM Collin Derm Renewal Cream – smoothing plus fine lines and wrinkle reduction
GM Collin Diamond Serum – illuminating, protecting, wrinkle filling and prevention
GM Collin Diamond Cream – illuminating, plumping, prevention, wrinkle reduction
GM Collin Diamond Eye Cream - expression lines, dark circles, puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles, illuminating
GM Collin 4D Visible Lifting Neck Serum - firming
GM Collin Vital C15 Serum – anti-oxidant, minimizes wrinkles and protects
Yonka Elastin Day and Elastin Night Cream - soothing, wrinkle repair
Yonka Elixir Vital Serum - repair serum
Yonka Advanced Optimizer Serum - firming
Yonka Advanced Optimizer Cream - firming
Yonka Advanced Optimizer Gel Lift - firming neck serum
Yonka Phyto 52 Cream - firming, decongesting cream
Yonka Phyto Contour - eye cream for dark circles & puffiness
Professional Peptide Treatments
Peptides can be easily incorporated in professional skin treatments. At the Summit, we use peptides in many of our skin care treatments although we have a few treatments that are heavy on peptides! Here are our standout peptide powerhouses:
Peptide Power Rejuvenating Facial - includes a gentle yet highly effecting peptide peel and botox-like peptides for a smooth, rejuvenated skin.
Diamond Rejuvenating Facial - your skin will shine like a diamond after this smoothing multi layered exfoliating facial packed with repairing peptides.
We hope you have learned a few new tips to achieve a healthier skin! That's our mission!