This seemingly new ingredient in skin care has been a staple in professional skin care for decades and has been medically injected for over twenty years! Recently it has dramatically increased in popularity as new more easily absorbed formulas have been developed. Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is now considered the Gold Standard for reducing skin dryness and plumping but there is much more to understand to get the best results from this active ingredient.
Let's start with what it is and isn't. Hyaluronic acid is a compound found naturally throughout the body especially in our joints, eyes, and skin. It draws in and absorbs water, making it great for keeping things hydrated and moving.
Like many beneficial compounds in our bodies, it sadly diminishes over time. For your skin, it means a loss of not only hydration, but plumpness. It also means the increase in loose or sagging skin. HA binds with collagen and water molecules, preventing the water from evaporating.
What Hyaluronic Acid isn't is a true “acid”. In skin care, acid usually means exfoliation. The pH of hyaluronic acid used in skin care is not low, causing exfoliation, but the opposite making it safe and effective for even sensitive skin.
How it works in skin care
Hyaluronic acid is known as a humectant in skin care products which means it retains moisture. It is famously known because it holds 1000 times in weight in water! This is why it is considered a gold standard ingredient for skin health. Here is how it works to improve your skin health.
- The science - there are two main types of hyaluronic acid and you want both - high molecular weight and low molecular weight. Hyaluronic acid was mostly a high weight molecule until recently. This means a high weight is big - too big to penetrate the skin but it still has big benefits. Low weight molecules of HA are new technology that are much smaller and can be absorbed deeper into the skin.
- HA is a “hydrator” not a “moisturizer”. It is like a drink of water. It hydrates us in the moment but soon we our bodies need another drink of water to function properly. High weight HA applied daily will immediately appear hydrated and plumped. Low weight HA will have a prolonged effect and reinvigorate the skin's HA production.
- Strengthen the skin’s natural barrier by reducing trans-epidermal water loss, making it ideal for keeping all skin types healthy and protected including sensitive skin issues.
- Smooth out fine lines and wrinkles to give the appearance of plumper, firmer, and more even skin.
Key steps to gaining benefits from HA
When used correctly the above benefits are enjoyed. When HA based serums are not used correctly can actually dehydrate your skin. The key begins with hyaluronic acids ability to attract 1000 times in weight in water.
In a humid climate, the HA molecule with attract water from the air to benefit the skin but in In very dry areas where there is little to no moisture in the air, HA can backfire and absorb water from your deep inside your skin, making it feel dry.
To counteract this if using in the winter, dry or air conditioned environments, it is very important to apply your HA serum prior to your moisturizer because the HA can pull and trap the moisture from other products into the skin. For dry skin types, it is also even better to apply a hydrating toner prior to the serum, such as GM Collin's Hydramucine Treating Mist or Yonka's Lotion for Dry Skin.
It is also important to use an occlusive moisturizer to have full benefits of the moisture binding and building properties of HA. If your moisturizer is so light that it penetrates rapidly, it might not be the best to combine with an HA serum to achieve the benefits of hyaluronic acid.
Safety and HA Serums
It’s safe to use hyaluronic acid on a daily basis even morning and night. A safe and effective % of HA serum or cream is 0.5 - 2%. Try not to layer multiple products containing hyaluronic acid. You only want one source of hyaluronic acid in your routine to avoid a possible irritation.
It can be paired with many other active ingredients except combining the ingredient with acids containing lower pH levels, like glycolic, because it may degrade the HA, making it ineffective.
From the inside out
Dermatology used to believe that diet did not have any significant effect in skin health. That is no longer the case. It is now believed that diet can dramatically affect the skin. Eating fruits and veggies with lots of antioxidants can protect the skin from inflammation, and in turn, helps the skin retain hyaluronic acid. Reducing sugar intake will also reduce inflammation having a similar effect.
How to choose the right HA products for you
Aa mentioned earlier, HA molecules can be either high or low weight. High weight is best at binding water, can't penetrate deeply into the skin therefore only provide hydration to the surface. Smaller or low weight molecules of HA can penetrate more deeply through the skin's layers giving a more dramatic result for those with concerns of deeper lines and wrinkles. Ideally it's best to look for a formula that contains a mix of both weights. To insure effectiveness it is also important that the percentage of HA is between 0.5 and 2%. Higher than 2% does not mean better and can cause irritation.
Keep in mind that it takes approximately 6 - 8 weeks to see results so give it time! Remember to use an appropriate occlusive moisturizer for your skin type so you don't risk drying out your skin!
You can now find this exceptional ingredient in all types of skincare products, but a hyaluronic acid based serums are the most effective. Here are our top picks:
Skinceuticals HA Intensifier Serum - ideal for mature, aging skin dealing with dryness and sagging skin. Bursting with hydrators and very plumping! Combines hyaluronic acid and 10% proxylane to help retain moisture.
Skinceuticals Hydra B5 Gel - ideal for under 40 with concerns of dehydration. Great for acne-prone skin. Contains a combination of HA and B5 to hydrate without clogging pores.
GM Collin Hyaluronic Filler Serum -ideal for all skin types needing hydration, plumping and repair from aging and sun damage. Contains an innovative and highly effective HA Filler Expert Complex that is a 4% blend of 3 different forms of Hyaluronic Acid, Cosmetic Drone™for wrinkle filling, and Hyaluronic Acid protector. For a complete HA experience of plumping and hydration be sure to combine with their Hyaluronic Filler Cream and Hyaluronic Filler Eye Contour!
Yonka Hydra #1 Serum - a great emergency solution for very dehydrated skin. A long-lasting, intense hydration activating complex of HA plus vegetal glycerin, sodium PCA, olive phytosqualene and vitamins E, C and A. Anti aging effects are boosted when combined with Yonka Hydra 1 Cream or Hydra 1 Fluid.
Yonka Optimizer Serum - ideal for 40+ skin with concerns with firming. Combining peptides, marine collagen and HA to plump, firm and hydrate.
What are hyaluronic acid injectables?
While the most common use of hyaluronic acid in skincare is topical, it is also available to inject between the layers of the skin. Two common hyaluronic acid based dermal fillers are Juvéderm and Restylane. They create volume under the skin where they are injected as they draw water to the area. They generally last up to nine months helping to restore facial contours that have been diminished with age.
The side effects immediately after are typically some swelling or bruising that can last for two or three days. The most important thing to remember is to go to a trusted and experienced physician or nurse injector working under a physicians practice. All injectables come with risks.
Who can benefit the most from using hyaluronic acid products?
Almost everyone, even people with acneic or sensitive skin, can benefit from including hyaluronic acid as part of their skin care routine.
Acne-prone skin really benefits from HA products since the increase in hydration at the surface will signal the oil glands to produce less oil!
In conclusion, EVERY skin type can benefit from a Hyaluronic Acid serum. Its gentle and hydrating and without side effects when used with an appropriate moisturizer. Reach out if you would like assistance in choosing the right one for you.